Waitomo glowworm caves and their FREE alternative: Ruakuri bushwalk

Phone photos do not do the place justice

New Zealand is home to natural wonders beyond count. As well as colossal mountains, volcanic geysers and rugged shores, there’s beauty to be found in the little things also. Things don’t come much smaller or more wondrous than the fabled glowworms of Waitomo. Carnivorous little larvae that feed on the previous generation, the Ruakuri and Waitomo glowworms light up the caves they inhabit like a night sky. If you want to see them for yourself, there are paid tours available, as well as a little-known bushwalk that will take you up close with these fascinating creatures.

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What are the Waitomo glowworms?

The glowworms that inhabit the Waitomo and Ruakuri caves are actually flies, when fully grown. What you’ll see in the caves and on the bushwalk are these flies-to-be in their larvae state - babies - with the dark, damp conditions of the caves providing the perfect environment for them to pupate and develop. The life-cycle of the glowworm is, essentially: birth, glow, fly, die. The larvae nestle in holes in the rock, where they grow and glow, letting long saliva-like strings hang down and ensnare their dinner.

Glow baby glow

“What’s for dinner,” we hear you ask? The only other organisms in the cave - other glowworms. Rather, at this point, flies. Once the glowworms have grown and transformed into their final form, they take wing and start looking for the light of the cave exit. One problem: the cave exit is hundreds of metres away - completely out of reach for a little fly - and there is only one other light source in the cave: growing glowworms and their stringy traps. The flies head toward the light, are entangled in the strings and become breakfast for the next generation. The cycle continues!

Where are Waitomo glowworm caves?

The Waitomo glowworm caves are, as you might imagine, near the village of Waitomo, just south of the town of Otorohanga and north of Te Kuiti on State Highway 3. To access them, take the 37 and follow the road along until you reach the ticket office, which will be on your left. You’ll need to visit whether you’ve booked ahead of time or not, as you need to collect your ticket and confirm your participation in your tour. Once you’ve got your ticket, head a little further along the road to the caves themselves and tour starting point, which is well-signposted.

For hundreds of thousands of years, these caves lay hidden

Should I take the Waitomo Caves tour?

If you’re looking for the “complete” glowworm cave experience, then yes. The guides are knowledgeable and engaging (shout out to Ocean, who was running his first tour when we took ours), and the caves go deep. They’re filled with stalactites and stalagmites which have been formed over thousands of years, not to mention the glowworms themselves! You’ll walk deep down into the cave system, before boarding a boat and coasting along the cave’s interior. Unfortunately we weren’t allowed to take photos, but the view you get is as stunning as any night sky you’ve ever seen. If you have the time and the cash to spare, you can’t go wrong spending an hour or two down in the dark.

The night sky embedded in a wall of rock

The alternative: Ruakuri bushwalk

If you’re tight on funds but still want to experience the glowworms, there is an alternative to expensive cave tours - the Ruakuri bushwalk. It’s a 1km walk, just a little way along from the Waitomo glowworm cave tours and gives you a taste of caves, tunnels, rapids and glowworms, all in one short walk. If you take your time, it should take roughly 45 minutes to complete

Find it on Google Maps here.

The walk starts in a car park and is signposted, so there’s little risk of getting lost. We mention this because the best time to visit, if you want to see the glowworms, is of course at night. With the glowworms only letting their light shine in the darkness, you’ll need to visit after sunset to get the full effect. Tip: if you’re taking a torch, try not to shine it directly at the worms themselves, as they are likely to stop glowing if you do!

A dragon-shaped stalactite in Aranui cave

As well as the glowworms, the Ruakuri bushwalk gives you the chance to make your way through a number of caves, including the colossal Aranui cave. Along the trail, you can squeeze through tunnels (not for the claustrophobic) and be taken aback by the sheer scale of the larger caves. River rapids run through them, in the dark far below, making for an environment both raucous and tranquil. If you want a flavour of the full experience, without the price tag, Ruakuri bushwalk gives you a little bit of everything, at no cost whatsoever.

Prepare to duck

Looking for Waitomo accommodation?

There are a number of options if you wish to stay near the Waitomo glowworm caves but, if you’re looking for something affordable and comfy, we’d recommend Waitomo Orchard Estate B&B, in nearby Otorohanga. It’s a shared accommodation with rooms, a shared kitchen and bathroom facilities. There’s also a hot tub! If you’re keen to stay, you can book through our affiliate link below.

The lovely view from our patio

So, is it worth the trip?

A resounding yes! The Waitomo glowworm caves and Ruakuri bushwalk are both excellent ways to spend an afternoon, whether you’re looking to shell out for a ticket, or get a different sort of experience for nothing at all. Have you ever visited? Is it on your list now? Let us know!

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